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MP-023 Mens Cotehardies Pattern

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Cotehardies were worn by both sexes of all ages and classes for over 200 years, from England to Bohemia and from Norway to Spain. While there were regional variations, the basic cut of the cotehardie was the same throughout Europe. Originally a version of the tunic (MP-016 Tunics), cotehardies differed in sleeve cut, variations, and their tailored fit. Woman's cotehardies were fitted or even tight to the hips, then flared to the hem. They most often had long tight sleeves. They would be worn over a chemise (MP-090 Women's Undergarments, Ruffs, Collars & Cuffs). Men's cotehardies, worn long or short, were initially tight to the hips, with long tight sleeves. They were worn over a shirt (MP-043 Men's Italian Renaissance Garment) and hose (MP-101 Medieval Military Garments), often with hoods. In the first half of the 14th century a major style change occurred. With the invention of curved sleeve caps, gussets under the arm became unnecessary. Puffed chests and full sleeves became fashionable on men's cotehardies by 1350.

Sleeveless tunics or surcoats (from the French "sur le cote", i.e. over the cotehardie) were worn by both sexes as early as the 12th century, but with the return of crusaders from the Holy Land the style became wildly popular. The armholes deepened to the waist, then (particularly on woman's surcoats) to the hip, earning the name "sideless surcoats". These worn by women over very tight cotehardies, roused the ire of the church because their revealing cut was considered too seductive - the clergy dubbed these "the Gates of Hell".

Surcoats and cotehardies for both sexes could be plain and somber, or wildly colorful. Heraldic motifs were common on these garments. Both sexes began wearing houpelandes (MP-026 Houpelandes) over a cotehardie after 1380. Cotehardies and surcoats as outerwear became unfashionable by 1425, with one exception. Cotehardies, with or without sideless surcoats, remained fashionable for women, as regal ceremonial garments, until well into the 16th century. When the houpelande went out of fashion, the cotehardie for women briefly re-emerged, with slight changes, as the kirtle (MP-051 Early Tudor Women's Gowns). Men's cotehardies had meanwhile evolved into the doublet (MP-043 Men's Italian Renaissance Garment and MP-053 Early Tudor Men's Garments).

Period Patterns number 23, Men's Cotehardies,contains patterns for 5 cotehardies and three hoods. This pattern includes men's sizes 36 through 48. These Cotehardies patterns cover fashions from 1340 to 1420 A.D.

These Cotehardies patterns were designed for real authenticity. Each pattern includes historical notes for background, and variation enhancements for the finished costume. Sewing instructions and suggestions for fabric choices and notions are included.

This pattern is complemented by MP-026 Houpelandes, MP-092 Capes and Tabbards, MP-093 Bags, Purses and Pouches and MP-101 Medieval Military Garments.

For your convenience a men's basic measurement chart appears below.

Body Measurements (Men's)
SizeSm (36-38)Med(40-42)Lg (44-46-48)XLg (50-52-54)
Chest34-3840-4244-46-4850-52-54
Waist30-3234-3639-42-4446-48-50
Hip37-3941-4345-47-4951-53-55


The instructions for this pattern assume you are an experienced seamstress with expertise in fitting garments, so they do not explain fitting techniques. They do NOT give explicit or detailed instructions and are NOT for beginners. If you are an experienced seamstress with good sewing skills you will be fine.



  • Item ID: MP-023
  • Shipping Weight: 0.29lbs



This product was added to our catalog on Friday 01 January, 2010.

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